Creative Meanderings

April 6, 2009

By far the worst day of the entire trip on many many levels. First, I was rudely woken up around 3am by noise from our arrival in Edfu as they were docking the boat. I contemplated on whether or not this would be the day I would get up to see the sunrise as I try to do this on every trip I go on, but alas I was too grumpy to enjoy something amazing like a sunrise. So, I attempted to go back to sleep.

After another coffee start (notice not breakfast, but coffee!), I was ready for my guide by 7:30. He was a little late and I don’t think I ever got his name…. After stepping off the boat, my guide negotiated a horse carriage driver to take us to Edfu Temple. About half-way through the ride (10 – 15 minutes in total), I started having trouble breathing as the horse hair was being kicked up and blown towards me and my eyes started to itch and burn….Luckily, we got to the Temple and I had a chance to recover a bit.
The guide began to show me Edfu Temple. It was quite beautiful and is a huge complex. However, I had to control my laughter throughout much of his explanation because he spoke to me as if he was telling the best drama story known to man. Me, a lone tourist…it was just comical. I wish I had taken a recording of the way he spoke about Hhhorrrus. LOL! Ah, I giggle just thinking about it. Anyway, he left me for a few minutes to walk around and take pictures. So, I was pretty content, though I was still suffering from itchy eyes and horse allergy.
Since all of my transportation had been provided for through my package, I didn’t say anything about taking the horse carriage back to the boat. Along the way, my guide said I should give the driver 3EP when we got back – or so I thought he said. When we got there, I gave the driver 3 1EP coins thinking that was enough.

My guide stopped and said, “No, it was 30EP.”
I asked, “For what?!”
He said, “That’s what the service cost.”

I thought he was full of it and as I never really had more than 50EP on me at any given time based on advise from my first-day’s guide, I told him,

“I don’t really have that kind of money on me.”
“What? You don’t?” he asked surprised.
“Whatever, here.” I responded annoyed by this point since my shortness of breath had returned and my body was itching from hives forming in response of my horse-hair allergy.

I handed him the money and walked away. He didn’t seem to really understand I was pissed off and said, “I’ll see you in Kom Ombo then at 3:30.” I just waved and walked off. After getting back on the boat, I had a little self-pity cry to myself as I washed my hands and face to get the hair off those areas and sat waiting for my breath to return to normal. Once that was settled, I texted Ehab to ask if it was normal or required for me to pay more than tip for the transportation. Ehab called me right back and asked about the situation. Then, he said he would pay me back some of the money when I got to Aswan because I shouldn’t have had to pay anything. So, I felt relieved and went to bury my frustrations in my book on the boat deck.

We set sail for another stop on the Nile at Kom Ombo. The Kom Ombo Temple is a unique temple in that it was built to worship Horus the Elder and Sobek (the crocodile god). It is symmetrically built to equal worship each god. So, the carvings are similar but the god image is changed. I was quite fascinated by all the different carvings of the crowns of the columns here as well. 😀 Kom Ombo was an important area as it was a military base and trading center between Egypt and Nubia. It was actually a lovely area along the Nile.
During the tour, Ehab must have called my guide because there was some arguing and yelling going on, which I tried to ignore. After my guide gave me the final bits of historical information, he left me to take pictures, showed which direction the exit was and took off! Usually, I was taken back to the boat to ensure everything was okay, but this guy was gone. So, the good thing is that I didn’t have to give him a tip! 😐

Once back on the boat, the day got a bit more interesting. The night before, Waleid, my masseur said he would offer me a free massage in the afternoon if I wanted it. Not being one to refuse a massage, I said “Sure!” and went to wait for him after I returned from the temple. While I was waiting, a guy was sitting at the computers using the Internet. So, he struck up conversation with me and it turned out that he was the manager of the boat. He told me about how he studied Tae Kwon Do and learned from a Japanese teacher about energy (ki). He asked about me and I thought it was a pleasant-enough conversation. He says we should wait on the boat deck for Waleid, so I follow him up to the deck where he offers me a drink. Me not being sure about paying for the drinks declined since I had plenty of my own water in my room. So, then the man said it was too hot, so we should wait downstairs. After being downstairs for a couple of minutes he asks if I like chocolate. I say, “Not really, thanks.” Then, he says to follow him and we can wait in his room…. I hesitantly follow the man to his small room where he has about 10 pairs of nice Italian shoes lined up, a stockpile of cigarettes, chocolate, etc. In his room, he offers to give me a free “Energy Vibration” massage for 15-minutes. ha ha. I politely decline and say I’ll just wait for Waleid. He asks if I’m sure and I confirm. Then, he offers to let me stay in his room to wait for Waleid…I tell him it’s okay, I’ll just wait downstairs. So, we return downstairs and Waleid has returned….

What the heck was that about? I dunno, but it was a very strange experience nonetheless. How do these things happen to me? At least it was “safe”. I need to stop being so trusting, I have been told, but then again I wouldn’t have such great little side adventures to share. Let’s just hope I continue to have “happy” endings!
So, ends Day 5. Just a few more to go.

More to come…

-T

April 4, 2009

Somehow I had it in my head that I was riding the sleeper train all the way down to Aswan and then coming back up. So, when we arrived at Luxor station, I was noting all the people getting off the train feeling ready to get out when there was a knock on my door. I hadn’t had breakfast yet, so figured it was the guy asking if I wanted my breakfast. Instead, I saw a man with my name on a card telling me that I was to get off there. Confusion settled in as I was certain my ticket said to Aswan, but I said OK anyway.

Ehab introduced himself as my driver for the day and the manager of the Luxor/Aswan region for Ramses Tours. We set off in his car and it was necessary to hold on for my life… Ehab drove like a madman going 120kph (75mph) without ever slowing down and using his horn if anyone was in sight who might threaten a release of the gas pedal. Due to slight fatigue, hunger and shock, I was feeling pretty car sick by the time we arrived to the boat I was to sleep on for the next three nights. Luckily, Ehab was considerate enough to give me a few hours to take a nap, settle in and recoup before setting off for sightseeing in Luxor. Before he left, Ehab also suggested that I consider adding on some extra tours since I was going to be in Luxor for two full days and I should see both banks of the Nile there. It was true that I should see the sites, but I was also wanting to conserve my money a bit, so I said I would think about it.

When Ehab returned, he had brought along a female tour guide for the day. I don’t recall her name and we didn’t really connect well as I was still tired and yes, in need of coffee!!! But, she was pleasant enough. We started with the Valley of the Kings.
I saw the inside of 3 tombs – Ramses IV, one of 60-some sons of Ramses II and Ramses IX. The paintings and carvings were amazing to look at. You wouldn’t even know that they are so old because the manner in which they were painted was unique and they have been preserved so well. There were quite a few people there, so it took a bit away from the awe-factor, but I was still a little sad I couldn’t take pictures! There were many other tombs there including that of King Tut, but my guide explained it wasn’t so interesting to see since everything was taken to the Egyptian Museum anyway. I’m not sure now if that was just an excuse to appease me for the cheaper ticket or what, but truthfully I was probably satisfied enough. 😀

Somewhere on the way we stopped at an Alabaster Factory aka a shop in hopes of me buying something. I wasn’t really interested….

From there we moved to the Temple of Hatshepsut (hot-chip-soup) or Deir al-Bahri.
Now this lady had a great story as far as I’m concerned. I love it when I hear in history that a woman took over power. I’m not sure why as I’m not necessarily a feminist, but I appreciate a woman with ambition. So, Queen or rather King Hatshepsut spread a story about how she was a descendant of the Sun-god as there was no proper male heir to the throne. However, she dressed and appeared like a man to the public – which is also very interesting…. Anyway, this temple was built for her and it was spectacular. Unfortunately, much of it had been destroyed or worn away, but the statues were quite impressive here.

On the way back to the boat (only a half-day itinerary), we stopped at the Colossi Memnon, which were two massive statues showing the remains of a very large temple on the West Bank. However, without maintenance of the walls it slowly dissolved from the regular flooding of the Nile.
I had decided to just spend the afternoon chilling on the boat, using the pool and relaxing as I was starting to feel overwhelmed with information and being so alone. So, Ehab offered to give me a free city tour at night so that I wasn’t too bored on the boat. I thought that was kind of him and said sure. So, he dropped me off back at the boat where I had my lunch and then relaxed. It was much warmer in Luxor than in Cairo, so I used the pool, tried to study, read my book and just chilled out. It was good. By the time the evening came around, I was refreshed and feeling much happier!

Ehab picked me up at 6pm and again recommended that perhaps I should see the Light & Sound Show at the Karnak Temple and then we’d do the city and in the morning he’d give me half price for the East Bank tour to see Luxor Temple. Since I had already been reconsidering this option, I agreed. I mean, I was there to see stuff! So, we first stopped to see what time the show started and found we had some time, so Ehab took me on the night tour first. We had a nice conversation. Ehab pointed out how many of the buildings in the city have been destroyed for excavation by the government and then rebuilt. He seemed very concerned about the loss of culture, which was a fair point. I was able to see the local market, which looks like any other market in a non-mall culture country. The only difference is the quantity of items or number of variations offered.
From there, we walked through the touristy market, which was a typical foreigners-attraction, but they venders were entertaining as usual. Ehab bought me some bread on the way out and offered to get me a taste of local Egyptian food for after the show even though I would still have dinner on the boat. 😀

Karnak Temple is massive. The columns reach for what seems like forever in the sky. At night, this impressive feel is amplified. The show was a nice change of medium to get some history, though I only really paid attention to half of it. You listen to the story and then walk to another part of the temple to hear more and work your way through the grounds until you get to seating over the lake and the story continues. It was pretty cool, if not a little cheesey, but hey it was something different. I liked the quote, “Remember, the huge size of this temple is not based on the size of man, but was built the size of the gods!” While it would be considered quite small from a god-like perspective (I would think), it is pretty impressive from the man-size viewpoint!
After the show, Ehab met me to take me back to the boat. As soon as I got back in, they called me to eat dinner, which I didn’t want because it was so late and Ehab had bought me my first Egyptian specialty, which I fell in love with (more on that later). So, I attempted to eat a bit and then crashed into bed for the end of Day 3.

More to come…

-T

Egypt is a short 3.5 hour flight from Abu Dhabi. I chose to take advantage of my first term break to spread my wings for the first time all by myself.

Upon arriving in Cairo, it was a fairly efficient task to get through the airport. I bought a visa stamp from the bank/money changer. The banker tried to hit on me, but I kindly said thank you for my money and went on my merry way. After getting through immigration, there was an agent from Ramses Tours there to greet me. Mustafa took me to the car where I met my driver, Hassan (more on him later). I felt some relief when I saw the headrest covers shown above in the car. Finally, we made the hour-long drive through the craziest traffic to my hotel.

My first introduction to baksheesh or tipping was upon arrival at the hotel when Mustafa told me I should give 20 Egyptian Pounds (EP) to the driver. Then, Mustafa told me I should give him 50EP for coming to get me. I laughed at that one when I realized 20EP was equivalent to $10, more than enough in my book. In the end, I didn’t give Mustafa anything!

My hotel was Pyramid’s View Hotel with a distant view of the Giza Pyramids. It was a nice enough hotel – 3 stars at most. Once I was mostly settled in, I went and got a sim card for my iPhone (I love that I can do that with my new iPhone!). It was a bit pricey for the sim card and charge, but I will keep it for when I go back or if someone else wants to go to Egypt. 😀

After I got the phone working, I contacted a guy from Couchsurfing because I had been in touch when I first started looking at my trip to Egypt. He convinced me to go out for a couple of hours even though I was exhausted and said he’d come get me at my hotel. When he arrived, he came in to my room and immediately put his arms around me. I wanted to be sensitive to the culture, so I didn’t say anything, but then he tried to kiss me! I was like “WTF are you doing?” He explained that he was just so attracted to me. I explained that he didn’t even know me and now I was going to go nowhere with him, so he might as well leave. He then apologized and said that he’d like to start over and at least take me somewhere nice to see the town. I was really put off, though and it took me a while to calm down. Eventually, he convinced to let him take me to get some water and then we ended up driving around Cairo for two hours looking for a possible place to eat and then me just wanting to go back to the hotel to sleep. In the end, I did get 4 bottles of water that were very helpful during my trip!

Thus ends the adventure of Day 1 in Egypt!

More coming…

-T